INTRODUCTION, FLIGHTS, ACCOMMODATION etc.
Portugal is not like a conventional birding holiday
for Amanda & I; we have now visited the Algarve
10 times since 1992. We always book a villa
independently with Barbara Read Villas. We first met Barbara in 1994
and we now regard her as a good friend. Unless travelling off-peak season,
the villas do not come cheap for two as most are 2 or 3+ beds, but they
are all individual, private and give us the living space we like which
enables us to quickly relax right at the start of our holiday.
I
don’t think you will be disappointed. If you do decide to book with
Barbara please give us a mention. Barbara also arranges very convenient
and reasonably priced car hire with a local operator in Lagos. Cars
can be picked up and dropped off at the airport without the usual hassle
associated with the larger operators such as journeys by coach to and
from the airport to the local depots. Flights to the Algarve are now
relatively easy to come by from a variety of airports around the UK.
We have always travelled from Manchester and usually with Monarch in
recent years.
If
you wish to keep costs down and are not too bothered about the quality
and size of the accommodation, there are any number
of package holidays available from all destinations within the UK and at prices to suit any pocket.
Although
it is now very unlikely any new lifers will be added during a trip to
Portugal, we continue to add to our Portuguese List
and from holiday lists of c100 in the early days, we now regularly clock
up 150+ species in a two week stay, almost irrespective of the time
of year. We always enjoy Portugal as a birding destination for a relaxing
holiday combined with special species not regularly seen in the UK.
RESEARCH and TRIP ESSENTIALS
Tourist
maps of the Algarve and of Portugal/Spain (for trips further
inland) are readily available at the new motorway service areas or local
tourist shops.
 The
main site books used were A Birdwatching Guide to the Algarve by Kevin and Christine Carlson (ISBN 1 900159
00 7) and Finding Birds in Southern Portugal by Dave Gosney
(ISBN 1 898110 18 2). Similar sites are also covered in the more
extensive Hamlyn Birdwatching Guide - Where to Watch Birds in Spain and Portugal (Where to Watch Birds) by Laurence Rose (ISBN 0 600 58404 6).
FOOD
Numerous
supermarkets around the Lagos area make self-catering easy.
Restaurants we can recommend are:-
Reis, Rua Antonio B. Viana, Lagos. Tel 282 762900
O Galeao, Rua da Laranjeira, Lagos. Tel 282 763 909
A Lagosteira, Rua 1° de Maio, Lagos. Tel 282 760427
Nortada, Praia do Martinhal, Sagres. Tel 282 624147
Fortelaza da Luz, Luz. Tel 282 789926
Lagos Map
ITINERARY
29/12/2003 Arrive Faro – Lagos – Alvor Estuary
30/12/2003 Cape St Vincent – Martinhal
31/12/2003 Carrapateira – Pera Marsh
1/1/2004 Burgau Marsh – Martinhal – Pera Marsh – Odelouca Valley
2/2/2004 Castro Marim
3/2/2004 Burgau Marsh
4/1/2004 Burgau Marsh – Martinhal – Cape St Vincent – Lagos
5/1/2004 Quinta do Lago – Alvor Estuary
6/1/2004 Cape St Vincent – Martinhal – Barranco Joao Vaz
7/1/2004 Castro Verde
8/1/2004 Burgau Marsh – Cape St Vincent – Alvor Estuary
9/1/2004 Pera Marsh
10/1/2004 Cape St Vincent – Lagos – Alvor Estuary
11/1/2004 Pera Marsh
12/1/2004 Return flight Faro – Manchester
SITES
In
the main, the maps and directions in the Site Guides are good. There
are however one or two notes below, which point to additional areas
well worth further examination.
Some
journey times have been dramatically improved following the opening
of additional motorway stretches west to Lagos and north near Albufeira
towards the Alantejo.
As
a guide to birds which are likely to be seen at the various sites, links
have been created to lists I have seen over the years and can be accessed
by clicking on the site name.
Alantejo/Castro Verde/Mertola – Gosney Pg 26, Rose Pg 181
(Castro Verde - Bird List & Mertola - Bird List)
Do not visit this area on Sundays as the local hunters are out in force and
birds are almost non existent. Visits in the last three years have not
been as productive as earlier years, possibly as a result of increased
disruption from hunters. Having arrived at Mertola, the onward, return
journey towards the coast at Castro Marim or inland towards Loulé is
quite time consuming. Although there are a few nice habitats on the
way, which are well worth short stops, we have recently retraced our
footsteps to the motorway near Castro Verde if time was critical.
Alvor Estuary – Carlson Pg 12, Gosney Pg 10, Rose Pg
184 (Bird List)
A
walk around the salt pans on the raised embankments is recommended for
both waders and gulls/terns. Collared Pratincoles can be a star turn
in Sept/Oct. The west bank of the estuary does not get a mention in
the guide books but is well worth a visit, especially at high tide.
Access is either from east of Lagos via Meia Praia and
Palmares golf course following the coastal track around the fish
tanks, eventually rejoining the N125 east of Odiáxere, or
in reverse if travelling from the Portimão side.
Barranco Joao Vaz
Leaving
the N125 at Raposeira this is an interesting drive down
a river valley with diverse habitats to a deserted sandy bay. In January
2004, our first visit, the area was rich with Blackcaps, Chiffchaffs,
Redwings and Ring Ouzels.
Burgau Marsh – Carlson Pg 11 (Bird List)
Bird
numbers fluctuate dramatically dependant on season, but always worth
a visit on the way west to Sagres and Cape St Vincent.
Cape St Vincent/Sagres – Carlson Pg 10, Gosney Pg 12, Rose Pg
183
(Cape St Vincent - Bird
List & Sagres - Bird
List)
 The
tracks around the Cape should be visited at every opportunity, especially
in Sept/Oct. Most are driveable and although our last few visits have
not yielded Little Bustards, the variety of species is almost always
guaranteed. The main tracks in question are not shown in the guide books,
but start immediately after the Taverna de Beliche. Turning right
by the Taverna, two tracks head north, straight inland, and run either
side of a small strand of trees for c1000m. At the end of the trees
the tracks join and head right (east) along another stand of trees towards
a trig point on a small hill, which is visible almost as soon as you
first join the tracks. The trig point is an excellent vantage point
to watch raptors in late September, early October, especially after
a strong easterly wind or preferably storm. The birds rest in the surrounding
fields and woodlands overnight and as the day heats up (usually 10.00
hrs onwards) they can be seen circling and gathering height overhead,
prior to continuing their southward migration.  The widest track, a little
further west from the Taverna, heads inland towards a farm, visible
in the distance from the road, and onwards to Vila Do Bispo. This track is well worth taking (we had a pair of Black-shouldered
Kites regularly in Jan 2004 near Vila Do Bispo) as are the small offshoots
heading towards the coast by the previously mentioned farm. Birds at
the Cape itself can be a little disappointing at times.
There
is also a small site at Sagres, not mentioned in any of the guides,
which is excellent at migration time as it is the only stand of trees
for some distance. As well as numerous warblers and flycatchers I have
seen up to 4 Wryneck here at one time in autumn. Taking the N268
into Sagres, turn right at the island (where there is a left
turn to Sagres town and straight ahead leads to the Fort at Ponta de
Sagres) towards Cape St Vincent. Almost immediately on the right hand side
of the road, after a Pottery and before the building compound with the
radio masts, there is a large pull in space by some small conifers.
This wooded area, plus the disused gardens/allotments nearby are always
worth a call when migrants are around.
As
regards Sagres itself, I have always found the best sea-watching
spot is the headland by the Henry the Navigator luxury hotel rather
than from the Fort. Turning left at the island at the end of the N268
mentioned above, follow the minor road through the town towards
the harbour. The hotel is set back on the right almost at the end of
the town and before the road starts going downhill to the harbour. The
track at the end of the hotel road leads onto the headland, which is
also favoured by Black Redstarts, wagtails, pipits and warblers and
on one occasion, an Ortolan Bunting.
Carrapateira – Carlson Pg 11 (Bird
List)
 North
of Carrapateira in suitable habitat by the roadside we have previously
seen Cirl Bunting on most trips.
Castro Marim – Carlson Pg 27/31, Gosney Pg 30, Rose
Pg 188 (Bird List)
The
salt pans to the right/east of N122 around Castro Marim
are well worth exploring at any access point, for waders and also Little
Bustard.
Castro Marim May 2006 Update
Martinhal (Bird
List)
Leaving
Sagres on the N268 towards Vila Do Bispo take the
fist right turn leading to the north end of Sagres harbour/bay. The
small tidal pool, which usually contains brackish water as only the
highest tides breach the entrance, usually contains a variety of waders
and gulls. But, more importantly, the beach bar Nortada (not
the first, surfers bar) has excellent food, is open all year and is
ideal for lunch when visiting the area.
Odelouca Valley – Carlson Pg 35 (Bird
List)
Can
be a little disappointing at times and not one of my favourite sites.
Pera Marsh – Carlson Pg 14 (Bird List)
 One of the best little habitats on the Algarve and regrettably under
threat from local developers. Four visits in January 2004 tell their own
story! Can be a little difficult to find at first, but from N125
east of Alcantarilha at traffic light junction, take road
to Armação de Pêra and almost immediately take a minor road left
across a narrow bridge. Over the bridge veer right (straight on goes
into Pêra) and follow this road around the outskirts of the town,
going up a slight incline to an “island” at the top of the rise (circular
building in fields to the right) and turn right (main road carries on
to Albufeira) taking the small road down to the beach. This road
and Pera Marsh are to the west of the golf course – Salgardos.
The minor road eventually deteriorates into a track to the main beach
car park. Tracks to the left, off this main track go right to the waters
edge.
Pera Marsh May 2006 Update
Quinta do Lago/Ria Formosa – Carlson Pg 15, Gosney Pg2, Rose Pg 186 (Bird
List)
 I
think the best way to view this extensive site is to head for the beach
car park at Quinta do Lago at the end of the seven islands on
the Ave André Jordon (Carlson Pg 16 & Gosney Pg 3).
From the car park head towards the beach and turn left immediately prior
to the wooden footbridge and follow the path around the edge of the
golf course. The maps in Gosney Pg 5 & 7 clearly show the
route around to Ludo Farm. The track leading from the golf course
to the farm has a sign for the emergency exit road from the airport – don’t worry. The salt pans between the golf course and the farm are
excellent for waders etc.
Monchique – Carlson Pg 33, Rose P g 184 (Bird
List)
We
don’t always visit this area as birding can be a little disappointing
other than a number of specialist woodland birds and the occasional
treat (Rock Bunting and raptors) from the peak Fóia.
Although
I have not yet been to Olhao & Fuseta (Carlson Pg
24) and Tavira (Carlson Pg 26) a colleague advises
they are well worth a visit for waders, especially in autumn.
Tavira May 2006 Update
BIRDING IN DECEMBER 2003/JANUARY 2004
Personal highlights were:-
Alvor
Osprey 29/12 & 5/1
Whimbrel 29/12 & 8, 10/1
Castro Marim
c21 Little Bustard 2/1
Spotted Redshank 2/1
c50 Little Stint 2/1
c10 Curlew Sandpiper 2/1
Red-rumped Swallow 2/1
Cape St Vincent
Pair of Black-shouldered Kite 30/12 & 4, 6, 10/1
Blue Rock Thrush 30/12
c100 Chough feeding in fields 4/1
Pair of Ring Ouzel settled in for the winter on Juniper bushes
Castro Verde/Mertola
3 Black-shouldered Kite 7/1
c30 Little Bustard 7/1
2 Calandra Lark 7/1
Pera
c100 Little Grebe 31/12
up to 12 Spoonbill 31/12 to 9/1
20 Greater Flamingo 31/12
Drake Ferruginous Duck 9/01
up to 20 Purple Swamphen 11/1
Slender-billed Gull 31/12
4 Woodlark 11/1
Dartford Warbler 9/1
3 Bluethroat (white-spotted) 9/1
Quinta do Lago
Spotted Redshank 5/1
c100 Little Stint 5/1
Gull-billed Tern 5/1
Species
seen at each site are detailed in the 2003/4 Trip List below. For comparison
you can also access my Portugal Life List covering 1992 to date.
Trip List 2003/4 
Portugal
Life List 
Portugal Bird Species Checklist
David & Amanda Mason
(With thanks to Pat & Judy Hayes for site photos)
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