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Real Birder |
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Kruger National Park South Africa - 26th February to 18th March 2016 |
INTRODUCTION Having spent 2 weeks in the Kruger proper in 2012 we knew we would return. Africa is a very special place and being able to bird independently in an area the size of Wales makes it extra special. Although the Kruger is a game park the very size of it means you are birding in a truly wild environment.
FLIGHTS Our chosen international carrier was British Airways, we would fly from London Heathrow to Oliver Tambo, Johannesburg, on the new super Jumbo Airbus A380, traveling “World Traveller Plus” at a total cost of £2,964:12. ACCOMODATION
CAR HIRE If we had a regret from our previous visit it was that our hire vehicle was a “Toyota Corolla”, a decent enough car, but lacked the height to see over some of the taller grasses encountered. This trip we had a Honda CRV, this has greater ground clearance and was the same as we have back home, so no learning how it all works. Once the paperwork was completed we were happy to drive away. INTERNAL FLIGHTS Our internal flights were from Oliver Tambo, Johannesburg to Skukuza and return, our carrier was South African Air Link a subsidiary of South African Airways. ENTRY & CONSERVATION PERMITS Birding Africa obtained an “International couples wild card” which is the most economical for our type of trip. TRIP COSTS
The costings above can be reduced considerably if you are:- All accommodation has the facility to cook with rudimentary stoves in the chalets, but if you use the BBQ option as most of the South Africans do, then self-catering costs can be minimised. All accommodation has its own “brai” better known to us as BBQ’s. LITERATURE Having visited the Kruger a couple of years earlier all of our literature had already been obtained. These included Kruger National Park (Globetrotter Travel Guide), The Pocket Photoguide to Mammals of Southern Africa, Roberts Bird Guide: Kruger National Park and Adjacent Lowveld DIARY - Fri 26/02/2016
Day 1 - 27/02/2016 Arriving at Johannesburg on time we were greeted by a queue for customs control of epic proportions, snaking its way for several hundreds of metres. Surely the powers that be must realise that when the world’s largest airliner arrives disgorging the best part of 500 passengers, 5 customs gates would be insufficient. We eventually got through and picked up our cases from the baggage hall; we then ran the gauntlet of several men claiming to be official “meet and greet” members of staff offering to take you to the internal flights terminal. Having been before we were wise to this ruse. Our internal flight to Skukuza airport left on time for the 50 minute flight. The flight actually took 20 minutes longer because of an aborted landing, just feet above the runway. Apparently the captain had been issued with incorrect wind direction and strength information, not the best start to a trip. We picked up our hire car and headed for Skukuza camp just 15 mins from the airport. With temperatures over 30°C we settled into our bungalow before taking a steady walk along the River Sabi within the confines of the camp. We then readied ourselves for our evening meal. New birds of day 1 - Egyptian Goose, African Fish Eagle, Blacksmith Lapwing, Common Ringed Plover, Wood Sandpiper, Common Sandpiper, Laughing Dove, Speckled Mousebird, Woodland Kingfisher, Pied Kingfisher, Little Bee-eater, Chin-spot Batis, Dark-capped Bulbul, Wire-tailed Swallow, Pearl-breasted Swallow, Greater Blue-eared Starling, Spotted Flycatcher, Ashy Flycatcher, House Sparrow, African Pied Wagtail, Lemon-breasted Canary. I should point out that I will only add new birds for the daily tally. An attached matrix shows all daily sightings. Day 2 - 28/02/2015
Today, although we were travelling north, gave us our first real chance to game watch & bird. The day dawned overcast with no crescendo of bird song; were we really in Africa? Birding was to coincide with our move to Olifants camp some 156km away. The birding may have been slow but the game viewing was excellent. A pack of 10 wild dogs within a mile of Skukuza, a leopard eating its kill up a tree just after lunch and 4 male lions by mid-afternoon.
New birds of day 2 - Common Ostrich, Helmeted Guineafowl, Crested Francolin, Swainson’s Spurfowl, Yellow-billed, African Openbill, Saddle-billed and Marabou Storks, Hadada Ibis, Striated Heron, Grey Heron, Goliath Heron, Little Egret, Hamerkop, Black Kite, Hooded Vulture, White-backed Vulture, Gabar Goshawk, Tawny Eagle, Marshal Eagle, Kori Bustard, Water Thick-knee, Three-banded Plover, African Mourning Dove, Namaqua Dove, African Green Pigeon, Grey Go-away Bird, Burchell’s White-browed Coucal, Verreaux’s Eagle-Owl, Lilac-breasted Roller, European Roller, European Bee-eater, Southern Carmine Bee-eater, Red-billed Hornbill, Yellow-billed Hornbill, Black-collared Barbet, Magpie Shrike, Lesser Grey Shrike, Forked-tail Drongo, Chestnut-backed Sparrow-Lark , Red-breasted Swallow, Rattling Cisticola, Arrow-marked Babbler, Wattled, Cape Glossy, Burchell’s and Red-winged Starlings, Red-billed Oxpecker, Red-billed Buffalo Weaver. NORTHERN KRUGER The far north of the Kruger is above the tropic of Capricorn and therefore has a far more tropical feel than further south. The area is dominated by 2 large river systems the Luvuvhu & Limpopo. Both these river corridors are dominated by large, mature hardwoods. This is the only area in the Kruger where the Baobab tree can be found. With the large abundance of fruiting trees, the area is a magnet for birds and is justifiably known as the birding mecca of the park. Day 3 - 29/2/2016 Today was the big push to Punda Maria camp, Kruger’s most northern rest camp and some 214km from Olifants. We left Olifants at 06:15 making Mopani rest camp in time for breakfast. We had a brief toilet stop in Shingwedzi camp before arriving at Punda by late afternoon. Again the birding was very slow; we were travelling many kilometres between sightings, something we would need to come to terms with during the trip. We managed our second lion sighting in as many days, a superb single Lioness just 20metres from the road, obviously engrossed in something as she never gave us a glance. Our accommodation was a 3 bedroomed family bungalow; it was nice to have a bit more living space.
Day 4 - 1/03/2016 As today was going to be our first proper days birding we decided to do Pafuri picnic site and Crook’s Corner; both these are on the banks of the Luvuvhu and Limpopo rivers and we were hopeful that these renowned birding sites should provide some much needed birding. All the guide books talk about Frank the resident bird expert at Pafuri, who knows the whereabouts of all the special birds of the area. Well, Frank was on annual leave, so no help there then. It was enjoyable that in a couple of areas on the long entrance track to the picnic site the birds almost became abundant, something we had taken for granted when visiting Africa previously. On our return to camp, we had our first evening meal at Punda Maria and it was outstanding, the finest grilled Chicken we have ever had. We joined another couple of Brits for the 2hour night drive when we managed 2 species of Nightjar and a couple of confiding Spotted Eagle Owls.
Day 5 - 2/03/2016 Today we decided to do the Mahonie loop, this is a gravel road that runs for some 26km and is renowned for outstanding birding. It starts a couple of kilometres from the camp and winds itself around some small wooded hills, finishing again a couple of kilometres from the camp entrance. Much of this drive follows a small watercourse which in normal years would be a very productive habitat; again the birding was slow with just enough birds and game to maintain interest. With temperatures hovering around 32°C we returned to camp by early afternoon. We paid a visit to the waterhole bird hide and apart from a couple of Cape Turtle Doves nothing else showed. We completed the day with another excellent evening meal. New birds of day 5 - African Hawk Eagle, African Hoopoe, Crowned Hornbill, Crested Barbet, Black-backed Puffback, African Paradise Flycatcher, Tawney-flanked Prinia, Long-billed Crombec, Yellow-billed Oxpecker, Blue Waxbill. Day 6 - 3/03/2016
New birds of day 6 - Black-crowned Night Heron, Half-collared Kingfisher, African Grey Hornbill, Golden-tailed Woodpecker, Violet-backed Starling, Yellow-fronted Canary, Neddicky. Day 7 - 4/03/2016
New birds of day 7 - Spur-winged Goose, Cape Vulture, Bohm’s Spinetail, Black-headed Oriole, Yellow Bishop and Mosque Swallow. Day 8 - 5/03/2016 As this was to be our last full day in the far north of the park and with the big push south tomorrow, we thought we would stay local. We had always intended to walk the “flycatcher trail” which runs along a ridge on the side of the hill situated within the confines of the camp. With the morning overcast and cool, it seemed the ideal opportunity. We had downloaded some literature that lists more than 50 species commonly seen on this trail. We started the walk at 06:30 and saw precisely none. We didn’t even hear a bird call!! Undaunted, we treated ourselves to a modest breakfast of bacon & eggs (first at the camp) and then re-did the Mopani loop; with the temperatures beginning to soar we returned to camp by mid-afternoon and packed, ready for an early start south tomorrow. New birds of day 8 - Natal Spurfowl, Common Scimitarbill, Cardinal Woodpecker, Eastern Nicator, White-bellied Sunbird. Day 9 - 6/03/2016
New birds of day 9 - Knob-billed Duck, Reed Cormorant, Black-winged Kite, Dark Chanting Goshawk, African Goshawk, Ruff, Double-banded Sandgrouse, Purple Roller, Malachite Kingfisher, Dusky Lark. Marsh Sandpiper, Lesser-masked Weaver. CENTRAL KRUGER Central Kruger has 2 main habitats; thorn scrub and savannah type grasslands. The picture above shows part of the savannah that is prevalent around Satara. The absolute lack of any grass, which in normal years would be knee high, clearly demonstrates the effect the drought has had. In 2013 this area abounded with breeding Quelea; tens of thousands of nests festooned almost every bush. Korhans, sandgrouse, larks and pipits abounded. Wildebeest, Zebra, Elephants, Gazelle and Ostrich gave this area the archetypal feel of the African savannah. Day 10 - 7/03/2016
New birds of day 10 - Lappet-faced Vulture, African Harrier Hawk, Black Crake, Green Sandpiper, White-crested Helmetshrike, Southern White-crowned Shrike, Southern Black Tit, Groundscraper Thrush. Day 11 - 8/03/2016
Day 12 - 9/03/2016 Day 12 dawned grey and very wet; the overnight deluge had created a torrent of water cascading down our access path; somewhat reminiscent of a small mountain stream, the water made its way past the bungalow down the steep hillside to the river below. With the rain still falling we breakfasted at the bungalow, hot buttered toast today! By 08:00 we were getting itchy feet and although still raining we made our way back to Letaba via the tarmacked H1-5. We then took the gravel S95 just some 4km in length, but with several good sightings of small birds. The rain had all but stopped by the time we took the gravel S47 some 37km in length. Although this wasn’t prolific bird-wise, we had great views of a pack of wild dogs resting at the side of the track. We returned to Olifants by the same route, getting back by late afternoon. New birds of Day 12 - Black Cuckooshrike, Yellow-breasted Apalis, Little Sparrowhawk. Day 13 - 10/03/2016
New birds of day 13 - Brown-headed Parrot, White-browed Robin Chat, Spectacled Weaver.
Large claps of thunder and heavy rain were heard in the small hours, so it was no surprise to waken to leaden skies and a very soggy Kruger. Because of the conditions we left a little later than usual sometime around 07:30, toast for breakfast and cheese & tomato cobs for lunch. We took the tar H1-5 to Letaba, then the H1-6 which has become a firm favourite, as it is one of the only roads where there always seem to be a few of the smaller birds. Then we took the S62 back to the Matambeni bird hide, which wasn’t as productive as previously, although a very impressive Goliath Heron gave good close views. A cup of tea and comfort stop at Letaba was made prior to our return via the S46 loop and H15. New birds of day 14 - African Sacred Ibis, Osprey, Sand Martin, White-throated Robin Chat, Mocking Cliff Chat. Day 15 - 12/03/2016
New birds of day 15 - Peregrine Falcon, African Scops Owl, Red-headed Quelea, Common Waxbill, Sabota Lark, Horus Swift. Day 16 - 13/03/2016 Today we returned to the hot and humid conditions we had endured for the first 2 weeks of the trip. We left Olifants after breakfast, which we had at the restaurant - scrambled eggs on rye toast with roasted cherry tomatoes. Leaving Olifants by 07:30 we took the tar H1-4 calling in at Satara for a comfort stop. We then headed for Tshokwane picnic site where we purchased a sandwich for lunch. We arrived at Skukuza at 13:30. Not much birding took place today; it was a day to get where you are going as quickly as you could. New birds of day 16 - Little Grebe, Woolly-necked Stork, Brown-hooded Kingfisher, Brown-crowned Tchagra. SOUTHERN KRUGER Southern Kruger is a mosaic of thorn scrub and open grassland populated by trees and bushes. Being influenced by the nearby Drakensburg Mountains, this part of the park receives more rain than either the central or north of the park. Although there was a good covering of grass around Berg-en-Dal, it was around Pretoriuskop where the grass was above knee-height, the norm for the Kruger at this time of the year. Day 17 - 14/03/2016
New birds of day 17 - Red-knobbed Coot, Whiskered Tern. Day 18 - 15/03/2016
New birds of day 18 - Levaillant’s Cuckoo, Black Stork, Red-faced Mousebird, Pin-tailed Whydah. Day 19 - 16/03/2016
New birds of day 19 - White-breasted Cormorant, Brown-hooded Kingfisher, Bearded Woodpecker, Green-winged Pytilia. Day 20 - 17/03/2016
New birds of day 20 - Green Wood-Hoopoe, Monotonous Lark, Red-faced Cisticola, Lazy Cisticola, Red-collared Widowbird. Day 21 - 18/03/2016
New birds of Day 21 - Cattle Egret, White-browed Scrub Robin, Bronze Mannikin. The total number of species seen during the trip was 201; this was well below our expectations, but due to the lack of many migrants as a result of the severe drought, a fair number. MOANS, GROANS & WONDERFULl MOMENTS Moan - With the technology to put a man on the moon, why can’t we surface gravel roads that don’t become corrugated with wear. On these worst roads you spend more time scanning the road surface, than the surrounding bush for birds and mammals. Groan - The complete disorganisation that confronts you at the airport’s arrivals hall; hundreds of weary travellers being disgorged into passport control to be processed by 5 passport officers.
Groan - The almost total lack of bird song. We realise that at the time of year we went bird song would have diminished as the breeding season came to a close, but we have been in Africa at this time before and our recollection is of a very strong dawn chorus.
The mammal sightings were very special, but the birds too had their moments, a gang of Ground Hornbills sifting through Elephant dung so close to the car that we couldn’t focus the cameras. A Tawny Eagle ripping apart a Dwarf Mongoose in a tree adjacent to the road. The Verreaux’s Eagle Owl standing in the teeth of a gale in the middle of the bridge refusing to move; apparently it was catching the bats that roosted under the bridge. By standing on the road the bats were silhouetted against the night sky, making them easier to catch. CONCLUSION Although the majority of the park is enduring a severe drought which had a detrimental effect on the birding, this could in no way diminish the total enjoyment a trip like this gives. The beauty of birding on the African continent is that there is always something of interest happening, you literally never know what is around the next corner, we were in the park for 21 days and every day something happened to make that day memorable. The logistics were left to Birding Africa to organise and again what they did was exemplary, we wouldn’t use any other company when visiting Africa. The accommodation at all 3 camps was very good. This was probably the best holiday we have ever had. If you want to visit Africa, and would like to do it independently then we would thoroughly recommend a trip to the Kruger. You can fly directly into the park so the environment is very, very safe. The whole area is well signed so you can’t get lost even in a park that is larger in size than countries like Wales or Israel. Bird Tick List Wildlife Sightings Bird Photos Wildlife Photos Kruger Map (click to enlarge) Pat & Judy Hayes |
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