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Real Birder |
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Gambia 28th November to 12th December 2008 |
INTRODUCTION Having decided to do our bit for the British economy, we booked our holiday in the UK this year. Our choice was to ply the waters of the Outer Hebrides in August on board a small exclusive motor vessel, searching the islands for cetaceans, otters and sea birds, with a trip over to St Kilda as the ultimate goal. Almost as soon as we had left our home port the weather took a turn for the worse. Rain, grey low cloud and high swells became the norm, with the first of our 2 weeks spent huddled under the aft canopy or down in the cabin. Salvation came at the end of the first week with the need to replenish the boat’s fresh water at the port of Malaig. The decision was made to cut our losses, jump ship and make our own way back to Oban where our car was waiting. Several bus rides and a 50mile taxi journey found us back in Oban in the early evening. A quick meal and we were on the road south, arriving back home in the early hours of the following day; “relief”. The decision was then made to look for a holiday where sun and birds can be guaranteed; we needed a “quick fix”, so decided on a return to Gambia where we had some unfinished birding business. GETTING THERE
We contacted The Gambia Experience for our flight. We were allocated 2 upgraded seats on a Monarch flight out of Gatwick on the 28/11/2008 at 9.15am. The flight was slightly delayed and we arrived at Banjul at approximately 3.30pm. Temperatures were in the high 80’s and, in the baggage hall, the same chaos greeted us as it had on our last visit. Having previous experience, we weren’t fazed and were soon extricating our baggage from the carousel with the help of a bona-fide baggage handler. Once into the main departures hall we were greeted by Claire from Halcyon, who wasted no time in getting us and our baggage safely to our transport. With less than half an hour to our accommodation, we were soon sipping a complimentary cool drink and meeting all of the Halcyon staff who were to make our holiday such a memorable one.
We chose an upper floor twin, which was very comfortable, clean and spacious. Air conditioning, ceiling fan, fridge, safe and tea making facilities are all standard as well as an en-suite. Breakfast is of the continental buffet type, with cereals, fruit, ham, cheese and toast with a variety of preserves on offer. The lunch menu consisted of several salads, omelettes, baguettes, and burgers. A choice of a delicious 3 course evening meal completes the catering, all lunches and evening meals being prepared by the Chef to a high standard. A well stocked bar with drinks at very reasonable prices completes the refreshments. The weather during the whole trip was, in the main, hot and sunny during the day, with temperatures in the upper 80’s. A couple of cloudy days were experienced toward the middle of the second week. Humidity wasn’t a problem and evening temperatures were comfortably warm, especially during the second week.
Our trip was perfectly suited to our needs, where we birded from about 7.30am until approximately 1.00–2.00pm when the temperatures would rise to above 85°. We also ventured out in the relative cool of the late afternoon on the odd occasion, but in the main, our afternoons were reserved for relaxation and trying to get good photos of the many birds that visited the garden - not as easy as it sounds. The birds were very confiding until I had the camera at hand, then they would fly off at the smallest movement. During our 2 week holiday we had decided to venture up-river (hence the unfinished business - see previous report). We were to spend 4-5 days at Georgetown and at Tendaba camp. This was to acquaint us with the birds we missed out on previously. BIRDING GAMBIA
DAY 1 Our first day birding saw us out by 7.30am when our initial stop was Kotu Creek & rice fields. Here we spent some time on the bridge checking out what was about. It also gave us the opportunity to meet up with Malick Suso, our guide during our previous visit. We also visited the Casino Cycle track and sewage works. Birds of note seen during our first day Pink-backed Pelican, Long-tailed Cormorant, Cattle Egret, Squacco Heron, Western Reef Heron, Great Egret, White-faced Whistling Duck, African Harrier Hawk, Hooded Vulture, Black Kite, Black-shouldered Kite, Shikra, Red-necked Falcon, Grey Kestrel, African Jacana, Spur-winged/Wattled/Grey & Ringed Plover, Wood Sandpiper, Black-winged Stilt, Grey-headed Gull, Senegal Coucal, White-faced Scops Owl, Little Swift, African Palm Swift, Green Wood Hoopoe, Pied & Malachite Kingfisher, Blue-bellied Roller, Little Bee-eater, Rose-ringed Parakeet, Western Grey Plantain-eater, Yellow-fronted Tinkerbird, Bearded Barbet, Snowy-crowned Robin Chat, Green Crombec, Variable/Beautiful & Splendid Sunbird, Yellow-crowned Gonolek and Southern Grey Shrike. DAY 2 Three sites were visited today, Brufut Woods, Tanji and Tujering. Both Brufut and Tanji had been visited on our previous trip; Tujering was new to us and is now firmly added to the Gambian birder’s itinerary. All sites produced new birds for the trip.
Osprey, Dark-chanting Goshawk, Lizard Buzzard, Double-spurred Francolin, Bar-tailed Godwit, Oystercatcher, Turnstone, Sanderling, Slender-billed/Kelp/Grey-headed/Yellow-legged & Lesser Black-backed Gull, Today we visited Pirang Shrimp Farm in the morning and the Fajara golf course in the late afternoon. I remembered Pirang being a favourite site last time we visited and today was not going to disappoint. We were lucky to gain entrance into the farm this visit, although later in the holiday we were not going to be so lucky.
Birds of note today Yellow-billed Stork, African Spoonbill, European Spoonbill, Greater Flamingo, Long-crested & Short-toed Eagle, Marsh Harrier, Lanner Falcon, Black-headed Plover, Avocet, Little Stint, Dunlin, Curlew Sandpiper, Gull-billed Tern, Little Tern, Spotted Redshank, Pearl-spotted Owlet, Woodland Kingfisher, Broad-billed Roller, Blue-cheeked Bee-eater, Senegal Parrot, African Pied Hornbill, Crested Lark and Red-rumped Swallow. DAY 4 Today was a trip to Abuko; probably the only site visited that mirrors the type of birding at RSPB sites, i.e. an elevated bird hide looking over a large pool, also a small craft/information centre.
Birds of note today Black-crowned Night Heron, Black-headed Heron, Blue–spotted Wood Dove, Giant Kingfisher, Yellow-throated Leaflove, Little Greenbul, Yellow-breasted Apalis, Common Wattle-eye and Western Violet-backed Sunbird. DAY 5 Birding sites visited today were both new sites to us. Bonto Radio Station was chosen as probably the best spot for Yellow-throated Longclaw, a bird we dipped out on during our previous visit and Farasuto Forest Park, a new community owned reserve, which is showing great promise for birds seen.
Montagu’s Harrier, Senegal Thick-knee, Eurasian Curlew, Barn Swallow, Pied-winged Swallow, Yellow-throated Longclaw, Mouse-brown Sunbird, Western Bluebill. DAY 6 If your intention is to see some of Gambia’s special birds or to amass a large trip list, then you do need to spend some time “up-river”. Only birding the coastal sites is akin to visiting Minsmere and just birding the car park. Unfortunately, our trip coincided with the religious festival of Tobaski, Gambia’s name for the Muslim festival of Eid Al Adha, or “Eid”. This is when it seems the whole population of both Gambia and Senegal are returning home to their respective villages to spend time with their families. With no bridges across the River Gambia, all traffic converges on two river crossings. The main one is Banjul to Barra where 2 ferries cross every hour. This ferry can carry about 10 large Lorries and 20-30 cars. The second crossing is at Farafenni to Mansa Konko and is a much smaller ferry, with less than half the capacity of the Banjul boat. With what seemed like the whole population of two countries converging on the Banjul river crossing, traffic queues where much, much longer than people’s patience and tempers. As the exact date of Tobaski can vary over several months and the decision when it will be appears to be taken 2-3 weeks prior to the event, planning to avoid Tobaski is nigh-on impossible.
Once over the Banjul ferry we were on a very good tarmac road and so some time could be made up. All the hassle disappeared when we saw 2 Abyssinian Ground Hornbill flying adjacent to our vehicle. This was one of the top birds on our “most want to see list”, other mega ticks followed including, Egyptian Plover, Northern Carmine & Red-throated Bee-eater. These birds were seen during several stops at wetland sites en route. Having reached the ferry for MacCarthy Island, on which Georgetown stands, our wanted list was reduced to just 2 species. This crossing was much more sedate, with just us and a tractor vying for room.
We have to say that if you are not prepared to flannel yourself down in cold water, watch the toilet discharge itself onto the floor and then drain out through a hole in the wall and sleep on a concrete bed with no fan or air conditioning, then Georgetown is probably not for you. Having initially decided to stay only one night, we reasoned we had gone through so much to get there that we would stay another night. At least we had some good birding to look forward to. Birds of note
DAY 7 Whilst at Georgetown we visited the Bird Safari Camp, Bansang Quarry and took a 4hr boat ride along the river. If you do decide to visit Georgetown and do the boat trip, take along something soft to sit on, like a rolled-up towel or coat; the seats are approximately 8” wide and consist of rough sawn timbers attached to the gunwales (see picture). Birds of note seen at Georgetown Purple Heron, Hadaba Ibis, African Fish Eagle, Western Banded Snake Eagle, Four-banded Sandgrouse, Bruce’s Green Pigeon, Blue-spotted Wood Dove, Blue-breasted & Grey-headed Kingfisher, Fine-spotted Woodpecker, Mosque Swallow, Oriole Warbler, White-crowned Robin Chat, Garden Warbler, Mouse-brown Sunbird, Yellow-fronted Canary, Cinnamon-breasted Bunting and Exclamatory Paradise Whydah. DAY 8
Once the ferry had docked the taxis again tried to jump the queue, turning a calm, well humoured situation into bedlam and Phil was again faced with people beckoning him onto the ferry, whilst others were telling us to stop and trying to impede our progress. Calm was somehow soon restored and we took our place on the front of the ferry. In order to keep this report to a manageable size, suffice to say that what I described before, pales into insignificance in comparison to what was waiting for us. This includes our vehicle being hit by a lorry and Judy witnessing Mustapha having his pocket picked, seconds before Mus realised it himself and the ensuing mayhem that followed. Again after several hours and with several palms greased plus heated discussions with the machine-gun toting soldiers about the Gambians’ right to preferential treatment, we found ourselves being escorted to the front of the queue. I’m sure for all those budding Michael Palins this would probably have been a breeze: to us it was a kaleidoscope of emotions, mainly ones of total helplessness and of fascination at all that was going on around us. This was truly Africa in the raw and an experience we will never forget or regret.
We finally made it to Tendaba, driving the last hour in the dark. On reaching the camp all we wanted to do was flannel away the dust, have a drink and something to eat. Having accomplished all three, we retired to our “VIP” room for a well earned kip. Tendaba is accurately described by “Lonely Planet” as having a “down at heel shanty town” atmosphere. That could easily have described the “VIP” block we were allotted. Having said that, it’s a notch above Georgetown. The only new bird seen today was Bronze-tailed Starling, in trees at the ferry crossing. DAY 9 Today was a more leisurely affair with a later breakfast and a boat trip of some 3hrs duration through the mangroves of the Baobolong Wetland Reserve. We would recommend this trip to all who visit Tendaba, assuming the tides are favourable and you have the time. After a protracted lunch we visited the “Batterling Track” staying until dusk for nightjars. Pennant-winged Nightjar was the target bird, but only Long-tailed obliged.
African Darter, White-backed Night Heron, Black-crowned Night Heron, Woolly-necked Stork, Striped Kingfisher, Sand Martin, Black-crowned Tchagra, Siffling Cisticola, Chestnut-crowned Sparrow Weaver, Long-tailed Nightjar and European Bee-eater. DAY 10 Today dawned with no mains water. Phil, as attentive as ever, was soon knocking on the door with several large bottles of water. So flannelling down and teeth cleaning was possible. After a chat over a welcome early morning cuppa it was decided to cut our losses and return to the luxury of Halcyon. This was accomplished by late morning and we spent the rest of the day chilling out and luxuriating in all that Halcyon has to offer. DAY 11 After our exertions of the up-river trip we decided to have a day off and spend our time relaxing at Halcyon, trying to increase our garden list and attempting to get some decent bird photos. The former was accomplished, but probably not the latter!
Cattle Egret, Pied Crow, Laughing Dove, Speckled Pigeon, Red-eyed Dove, African Mourning Dove, Piapiac, Senegal Coucal, Senegal Parrot, Western Plantain-eater, Red-billed Hornbill, Grey Woodpecker, Red-chested Swallow, Yellow Wagtail, Common Bulbul, Black-capped & Brown Babbler, African Thrush, Variable & Beautiful Sunbird, Yellow-crowned Gonolek, Purple & Long-tailed Glossy Starling, House & Grey-headed Sparrow, Northern Red Bishop, Yellow-fronted Tinkerbird, Village & Little Weaver, Lavender Waxbill, Red-cheeked Cordon-bleu, Red-billed Firefinch, Bronze Mannikin and Village Indigobird. Fly overs Hooded Vulture, Black Kite, Shikra, Lanner Falcon, Little Swift, Mottled Spinetail, African Palm Swift, Rose-ringed Parakeet, Red-rumped Swallow and House Martin. DAY 12
Both sites were visited and we were back at Halcyon by early afternoon. Incidentally entry into the shrimp farm was denied today, greatly reducing the value of the site as visibility is restricted through the mesh of the main gate or from the observation mound which offers distant views of the 2 nearest salt pans only. Birds of note Stone Partridge, White-throated Bee-eater, Brown-backed Woodpecker, Greater Honeyguide, House Martin, Red-shouldered Cuckoo-shrike, Subalpine Warbler, Yellow White-eye, White-shouldered Black Tit, Collared Sunbird and Black-winged Red Bishop. DAY 13
The lake track turned up nothing exceptional, although whilst Mus was imitating the call of a Pearl-spotted Owlet we were surrounded by dozens of small birds responding to the call. These included African Oriole, several species of sunbirds, drongos, babblers, weavers and Laughing Dove. Tujering was remarkable in that we saw 7 species of raptor including an Osprey carrying a very long thin fish. Managing to find several new species on our last day demonstrates just how good birding in the Gambia can be. Birds of note
MOANS, GROANS & MEMORABLE MOMENTS Moan Moans & groans were few and far between this holiday, but why do people insist on having a window seat on the plane only to either pull down the blinds, or bury their heads in a book as soon as the wheels have left the runway? Because of our late booking we were allocated centre isle seats. Having no interest in watching “Mama Mia” I spent 6 boring hours people watching or staring into space. Memorable Moments (Of which there were many) Being supplied with a knife, fork and long stick when we lunched at Lamin Lodge. We asked, “Why the stick”? “That’s to beat the monkeys when they try to steal your lunch off your plate” we were told - and sure enough they did and the only way to keep them at bay was to wave the stick around like a Whirling Dervish.
Our whole adventure up-river, including stopping at Farafenni for a brown bag of assorted meat & gristle with fried onions and gravy; not for the faint hearted and not as tasty as the Marmite and strawberry jam. Whilst we’re on a gastronomic theme, the fried chicken spam & onions with chips, a local dish I availed myself of on several occasions. Being served the worst bottle of white wine that I have ever tasted at Tendaba and I have tasted some rubbish! Mustapha regaling us with tales of his birding escapades around the world when in fact he has never left the confines of Gambia & Senegal and all delivered in a broad Yorkshire accent. Brilliant! The boat trip through the mangroves at Tendaba - simply brilliant. Returning back to Halcyon, we’ve never been so glad to be back anywhere in our lives.
SUMMARY Our species list for the holiday was 266, a very respectable total when you consider our relaxed approach and the days when very little birding took place, due in the main to the ferry delays and breakdowns. The holiday was very, very enjoyable. We saw all the birds on our most wanted list, with the exception of Finfoot which normally doesn’t arrive until early into the New Year. The birding was relaxed, as we requested, but sufficiently active for us to see many memorable birds well.
Pat & Judy Hayes |
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